A Revival in Lebanese Winemaking: History, Current Trends, and Challenges
In 2020, Lebanon faced a series of unprecedented challenges, including a popular revolution, a financial crisis, the arrival of the novel coronavirus, and a massive explosion at Beirut’s port. Despite these hardships, the country's wine industry has experienced a renaissance. From 1996 to 2020, the number of wineries grew from 40 to nearly 80, indicating a growing trend and resiliency in the face of adversity.
Historical Background
Lebanon's winemaking history dates back 7000 years to biblical times. The city of Baalbek in the Bekaa Valley hosts an intact second-century temple to Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, reflecting the significant role wine has played in the region. Between 2700 B.C. and 300 B.C., the Phoenicians spread viticulture throughout the Mediterranean.
French Influence and Modern Wins
In 1857, French Jesuit monks planted Cinsault vines in the Bekaa Valley at what is now Chateau Ksara. This event was pivotal, cementing a wine culture in the region during the interwar period. At the start of Lebanon’s 15-year civil war (1975–90), there were just six commercial wineries, including the globally acclaimed Chateau Musar.
Serge Hochar, Chateau Musar's winemaker and legendary figure, recognized the need to export his wines. He traveled to the UK to educate the world about Lebanese wines, laying the groundwork for a thriving industry. Today, wineries like Domaine des Tourelles and Chateau Marsyas lead the way.
The Lay of the Land
Lebanon, situated at the eastern edge of the Mediterranean, borders Syria and Israel. With a dry, sunny climate and elevation provided by the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon mountains, the country is ideal for grape growing. The Bekaa Valley, located near 30 miles east of Beirut, is the heart of the wine region, with vineyards often grown at more than 3000 feet.
Key Varieties and Their Characteristics
Phenomenal varieties like Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre are commonplace, alongside Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. These wines are generally powerful and full-bodied, with Middle Eastern spices like cumin and sumac. The tannins in these wines make them capable of aging for years.
However, the red variety most recently in the spotlight is Cinsault, a historic Lebanese grape. Faouzi Issa of Domaine des Tourelles highlights how Cinsault thrives in the Bekaa Valley's weather, producing a round, soft, and silky wine that ages exceptionally well.
For white wines, Lebanon produces Chardonnay, Viognier, Sémillon, and Sauvignon Blanc, with an increasing focus on the native varieties Merwah and Obeideh. These grapes are traditionally used to produce the anise-flavored spirit Arak. Karim Karam notes that Lebanon's white wines are of high quality, with freshness, depth, and complexity that belie their location.
Contemporary Challenges
As Lebanese winemakers have built their industry, they have faced extreme challenges. Chateau Marsyas's offices were just 1600 feet from the August 2020 explosion that killed over 200 people and injured thousands. The Saadé family's Domaine de Bargylus in Syria also saw challenges, with grapes from Syria having to be tasted from the family's hospital room in Lebanon.
The Lebanese pound's significant depreciation and the inability to draw money from local banks added to the difficulties. Winemakers rely on Europe for raw materials, making it difficult to survive on local sales alone. Tourism and exports from Europe to Lebanon acted as a buffer, but the global lockdown added another layer of complexity.
Industry Resilience
Despite the challenges, the Lebanese wine industry remains resilient. The struggle to rise to these challenges and the fact that they prioritize exporting their wines to survive highlight the industry's adaptability and determination. As the world continues to seek quality and unique wines, Lebanon's winemakers are well-positioned to thrive in the global market.
Lebanon produces around 10.5 million bottles and exports about 50 of its wines annually, making the industry's survival crucial. This tiny but determined sector continues to face challenges yet shows a remarkable ability to overcome them, ensuring the continued growth and success of Lebanese wines.